tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5317052042177627905.post918130780125242819..comments2023-06-10T10:09:21.134-04:00Comments on ExhibiTricks: A Museum/Exhibit/Design Blog: Another Visit With The Exhibit Doctor: Don't Touch The Walls!POW! (Paul Orselli Workshop, Inc.)http://www.blogger.com/profile/05111591384018210698noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5317052042177627905.post-14767296820085721252012-02-09T10:46:39.388-05:002012-02-09T10:46:39.388-05:00I create history exhibits for an archive. Almost ...I create history exhibits for an archive. Almost everything is 2D (my world is a series of rectangles!). Our building is designated historic so there's no way to attach ANYTHING to the walls, which are limestone (and stained by any kind of adhesive I've found. I've experimented - yikes!). I cannot do touch up painting either on areas where there is stucco.<br /><br />Five years ago when I took this job I began to devise a modular system of single-sided false walls. It is similar to the idea of using doors, but these are lighter. I need it to be lightweight and easily moved, sometimes by just myself, so I framed out these walls with 1x4s, supported by "endcaps" that are perpendicular to hold the wall up. The effect is a series of niches into which I can also place display cases. I used 1/4" (or 5/16") plywood to panel them. I can paint and repaint (or patch) over and over. I can use nails, screws, bolts, hangers and Velcro to hang things on these walls. I deal mostly with photographs both framed and unframed or large print graphics on foamboard, but I've also built shelves to attach to them for labels and graphics as well as mounted a video screen on one with a small shelf for a mouse. I built them 3'x7' and have footers made of sandwiched 2"x4"s on edge in various lengths. These footers provide a kick space. The size makes the modules manageable to disassemble and move more easily. I can reassemble them by screwing them together with wood screws and/or bolts for whatever length wall I need. The longest wall so far is 12' with two 2' wide endcaps. A little bracing with a board along the top, and it is straight. Depending on the flooring, I shim them for leveling and am experimenting with adjustable feet. <br /><br />When I've built "rooms" with these walls, I cover the opposite side with gatorboard, also paintable and reusable. I made 2"x6" posts for the corners and paint and cover everything with gator. I'm currently constructing a tiny movie theater this way, complete with a marquee. I'm also working on removable decorative trim pieces to match our architecture.<br /><br />Love this blog! It has helped me a great deal. Thanks!Stevehttp://austinhistorycenter.orgnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5317052042177627905.post-14162017393438061872012-02-08T12:49:53.120-05:002012-02-08T12:49:53.120-05:00At our museum we have been using the 3M Command ad...At our museum we have been using the 3M Command adhesive strips with great success. The largest piece mounted was a 4'x8'x0.5" gatorboard. That probably took about 20 strips. We have never had a problem with a painted surface on a 3-month installation. Currently testing on a stone surface to see if it will stain over time. The downside is we can only seem to get it in consumer packaging (much waste.) I need to speak with a 3M rep to see if we can purchase it in bulk.<br />http://tinyurl.com/3m-commandBoomchuckerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06126190109724664405noreply@blogger.com